Making Colloidal Silver: The Simplest Method The staring point for making your own colloidal Silver is pure Silver and pure water. Electricity is passed through two electrodes made of Silver immersed in pure water where some of the metallic Silver will get directly into the water as a pure metal (and not as a Silver compound). Pure Silver is essential, and I would suggest using only 0.999 assayed Silver bars you buy from a reputable dealer. That means investment-grade Silver bars. Do not use coins, medallions or spoons because the purity of the metal may not be guaranteed. Since Silver is usually a by-product of both the zinc and lead manufacturing industry, and can therefore contain even more dangerous impurities like cadmium and arsenic, you should never use technical-grade Silver or anything other than 0.999 assayed metal. You also only need a very small amount of it. If you take a 1 ounce (31.1 gram) bar and cut that lengthwise in half with a hacksaw, that amount is more than enough for a lifetime supply for a whole village. The next component is pure water. Use only distilled water. You can make it yourself if you have a water distiller. Do not buy de-ionised water, just simple distilled water you can get at a gas station for use in car batteries. The “machine” is just a pair of alligator clips connected to a power cord that gets plugged into the mains once your setup is ready to go. The Silver bars get clipped onto the wires with the alligator clips, which are used in electronics to provide a temporary connection, and these enable you to screw the wires onto the clips to keep them secure. Ideally, you should use this setup only for making colloidal Silver (or other metals such as copper or Gold) solutions and nothing else. The wires should be kept separated from each other so as not to come into contact with each other even when the electrodes are attached to them. I use a wooden dowel with notches on the ends for the wires and the wires held in place with electrical tape. This “machine” is then placed onto a non-conductive (glass or plastic) vessel into which the pure distilled water is then placed. Once everything is in place, the cable is then plugged into the mains and after about an hour, you’ll have a golden coloured solution containing colloidal Silver. Some people will insist on using DC current or a specially modified current using a converter. This is unnecessary. You can make it using a small battery or your 220V AC mains current and the only difference will be the speed. Generally, the higher the power, the quicker you’ll have your solution. The colour should have the same hue as that of lightly tarnished Silver, which is Golden-light brown. The longer the setup is left powered on, the more the colour will come to resemble that of aged Silverware until (if left for too long) it turns black. If that happens, you should discard the batch and start again because that usually indicates the presence of Silver compounds (as opposed to pure Silver metal) in solution and while use of such a solution is good for topical use such as for skin rashes or burns, it is NOT recommended for internal use because that may cause argyria, an irreversible skin condition characterised by a bluish, almost steel-grey skin colour. Since you will most likely be doing this multiple times over the course of many years, I recommend that you save a tiny amount (about 5 ml) from your previous batch and add it to the distilled water in small increments of a few drops to start the process. Pure water is non-conductive, and using pure distilled water to make colloidal Silver will take a while. Using a tiny amount of tap water (a couple of drops) for your first batch will increase the conductivity so that the process starts quicker, unless you’re willing to wait a few hours. Variables will include things like the exact purity of the water, how clean the electrodes are, and how good a connection you’ve made between them and the wires. When you first plug the wire into the mains, you’ll notice some bubbling on the electrodes. This is caused by the current breaking down the water (H2O) into oxygen (O2) and hydrogen (H2). When the Silver itself starts going into solution, it will look like wisps of white smoke coming from the electrodes. As this process continues, the colloidialisation starts increasing at a faster rate because the colloidal Silver itself will increase the conductivity of the solution. For this reason, once you plug it in, you should monitor the setup carefully so that the colour doesn’t get too dark. It should also be placed somewhere like inside a sink where if the vessel containing the setup breaks, it won’t cause too much damage. This can happen if the reaction goes too quickly and the water starts heating up too much. If that happens, there’s a very real possibility of a short circuit occurring which could start a fire and trip the fuses. You should be prepared for this eventuality by monitoring the setup and especially keeping young children and animals away from it. To help the reaction along, you may want to shut it off and stir it once in a while, preferably using a non-conductive spoon. Once your batch is ready, pull the plug out from the mains and pour the colloidial Silver solution into an opaque container, and then keep that in an enclosed place free from any sunlight. Silver will react with sunlight, and this reaction is the basis for old black-and-white photography. The taste should be a sweet metallic taste. It’s not an unpleasant taste, and ideally you should take one mouthful per day. Since Silver is technically a heavy metal, it should not be used in conjunction with any type of chelation therapy, or used at the same time as vitamin C because it will chelate the Silver out of your body, which defeats the purpose. It doesn’t matter whether you take it before of after a meal, or before or after you sleep. However, if you’re taking megadoses of vitamin C you might want to take it a few hours apart from that. If you’re doing (or contemplating doing) chelation therapy, you should start taking Silver after you’ve done that and gotten all the other heavy metals out of your body. As with everything, you should use this within normal limits. Colloidial Silver is an antifungal, antiviral, antibacterial preparation that also kills cancer cells. Does that mean it will cure you if you’re afflicted with any of these pathogens? It might, but the more reasonable approach is to use it as a preventative measure against the aforementioned pathogens. Unlike Silver compounds, colloidal Silver, if taken properly, will be uptaken by the microtubules inside every single one of your cells and act as a chemical prophylactic against any foreign pathogen. Since the cellular microtubule is actuallty the smallest non-divisible unit of consciousness we know of, there are implications that the use of colloidial Silver may increase your vibrational frequency because it is, after all, the best conductor of all the elements. Some people are taking colloidal copper, and reporting that it attenuates the symptoms of the common cold or of viral infections. I would be very careful using colloidal copper internally because increased copper content in the blood was the only clinically detectable indicator for schizophrenia. Colloidal Gold is probably a good thing to try as well, but the ORMUS (or ORME) form of Gold (a.k.a. the white powder of Gold) is easier and cheaper to prepare. Personally, I have been taking colloidal Silver sporadically on an as-needed basis whenever I feel that I’m about to come down with something. Since I started using it about 20 years ago, I haven’t had any major downtime due to infectious diseases. Before that, I had been hospitalised with salmonella (2x), campylobacter, and pneumonia. Since I started taking colloidal Silver, the intensity and duration of the usual seasonal flu has diminished and there have been years where I wasn’t sick at all. Use it at your own discretion and within normal limits. Extremism is never a good thing, even when using something beneficial. Balance is the key.
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More from Dalibor Maria Suchy

Using LST to Increase Your Psychedelic Powers If you’ve done your research and you’re even remotely interested in esoteric matters you should already know that psychic powers are a demonstrable and documented scientific fact, notwithstanding what the media would have us believe, and the same goes for most paranormal phenomena like UFOs, aliens, ghosts, life after death, etc. That doesn’t mean that every claim of something paranormal is factual, or should be believed. Whenever possible, you should do your own research and your own experiments to see for yourself. What most people have never heard about is the relation of PSI abilities to one’s position on the Earth and its relationship to the cosmos. In a 1997 article titled “Apparent Association Between Effect Size In Free Response Anomalous Cognition Experiments And Local Sidereal Time” available here: http://www.jsasoc.com/docs/JSE-LST.pdf it was discovered that the effect sizes for PSI phenomena dramatically increased when the experiments were performed within an hour of 13:30 LST. What is LST? It’s Local Sidereal Time, or simply stated “Star Time” as opposed to Solar time which we all use. Instead of calculating time based on the Earth’s position to the Sun (and your position on the Earth), LST is calculated using the surrounding stars as a reference point. Since the Earth moves around the Sun by 1/365th of its revolution, or about one degree each day, that LST will shift by about 4 minutes per day with respect to the Sun. So although LST is based on a larger frame of reference than regular time, it still varies based on your position on Earth. An observer in Europe will always be ~6 hours ahead of an observer on the east coast of the USA. The implication of this is interesting because it establishes a PHYSICAL variable that has an effect on PSI abilities. Kind of ties in with all the data (and my experiments) on the effect of the pyramid shape on the inertia of a rotating mass. Since the Earth itself is one huge rotating mass, the position of The Great Pyramid at Giza in the very centre of the Earth’s continental mass appears to be intentional. We still don’t know the true purpose of TGP or the other pyramids and no theory, including that they were resurrection machines should not be discounted. We know that being inside a scale model of TGP will change all your blood readings after 15 minutes, and we know it affects living systems like decomposition, seed sprouting, and the flavours of various foodstuffs. Knowing that a physical variable like LST or the pyramid shape has an effect on ESP and PSI phenomena in general, what other physical variables can we change to increase them at will? Certain meditation techniques have been reported to work anecdotally, including one recommended by Dr. Joe Dispenza here: https://youtu.be/q9cTJef4gzE The technique consists of holding your breath while you pull in your abdomen and tighten the sphinctre muscles in order to cause a chain reaction where the cerebrospinal fluid goes up the spine and compresses the pineal gland in order to activate the crystals inside it to give off a piezoelectric effect and thus metabolise the hormones serotonin and melatonin it normally produces into DMT. After repeated experiments with this technique I kept seeing the chemical cartoons in the video morphing into Mickey Mouse and then realised that the catecholamine molecule looks exactly like a silhouette of Mickey Mouse, catecholamine being a precursor to all 12 of the body’s hormones. We also know that focused intention causes a physical effect on physical matter, most importantly water, as demonstrated by the experiments of Dr. Emoto. That actually would confirm a different theory that non-physical factors are at play in PSI phenomena because focused intention is a purely mental thing. LST can best be described as Astrological Time versus Astronomical Time. It’s obvious that these 2 terms were switched at birth, where the words “psychic” and “psychedelic” are misnomers as well since “psychedelic” means “mind-clearing.” For this reason, I like to interchange the word “psychic” with “psychedelic” since anyone who’s experienced anything psychedelic knows that it’s anything BUT a mind-clearing experience but rather a mind-expanding one. Since psychic powers are inherent to all consciousness including the human mind but very few people actively engage them in their day-to-day lives, these psychic abilities are sometimes thought of as <extended capabilities> which would make them more analogous to the psychedelic experience than the normal waking one. Knowing that one’s LST will affect the outcome of any psychic phenomena one might be attempting to manifest, the same would therefore apply to any attempts at effecting change via nonstandard methods such as divination and Magick. Most likely, it will also have an effect on one’s psychedelic experiences, and even meditative practices. The alchemists of old were right in claiming that certain alchemical operations had to be done at certain times due to their correspondences with the motions of the heavenly bodies. The most stunning application of the proper timing of a divination operation which I’ve experienced was back in 2018 when I decided that I needed a large quantity of lead foil to shield various places in my living quarterts from both EM and negative Telluric radiation. Having discovered that only lead foil (as opposed to other metals like copper, Silver, aluminium, tin, and steel) would do what I needed efficiently, I set out to buy some but found the prices to be NOT to my liking. There was also an upcoming bulk garbage day for 2 towns in my area. When 13:30 LST came around 2 days later, I was ready. Using the cards, I was able to confirm (without a shadow of doubt) which of these 2 towns would have somebody throwing out a good-sized piece of lead foil. I then opened Google Maps and, using a pendulum in one hand and my mouse in the other I was able to pinpoint an area of 3 city blocks where I would find it, and even on which day (since these are typically a 3-day affair). Went there and scoured that particular area and found nothing. Cruised around for 4 hours thinking that maybe I had been mistaken. Checked that area 3 times, and just as I’m getting ready to leave for home, I cruised the area again and noticed a table with some boxes on top. Checking the boxes, I discovered they had small (30 cm) rolls of lead foil, having a total weight of about 20 kilos. I then had a closer look at the table, which was more like a stool, and realised that it was the exact size and configuration that I needed. I would up taking the whole thing, and that whole find fit perfectly inside my (at this point) already overstuffed minivan. It was only later that I realised the whole IMprobablility of what I had just done. How many people out there are throwing out lead foil, and why? Had I gone into that operation with that degree of retroskepticism, I probably would not have succeeded. I just basically went through the motions, expecting SOME kind of result and got not only the lead foil but the small table as well. To this day they serve their purposes in my house. At this point you might be asking if I use LST-enhanced divination for all my Spehrrmull (bulk garbage days here in Germany) runs and most of the time I do not because the whole Spehrrmull experience then becomes more like one’s childhood experience of Christmas where you don’t know what you’ll get, you just know it’ll be something good. Aside from that, metals like Gold and Silver as well as real antiques are common finds for me. I don’t have (or need) a job and picking through other people’s trash is the only physical work I actually do these days, aside from the task of packaging and mailing some of the finds I wind up selling at various online auction venues. The moral of the story is that you can do anything you believe you can using the superpowers of your human biomind, if you believe in yourself. Which I DO. Here’s a good LST calculator I use: http://www.jgiesen.de/astro/astroJS/siderealClock/
54 views · Mar 11th, 2020
ORMUS - How To Extract Your Own The following is gleaned from various sources and simplified, so that anyone can do it. I describe what's called the "wet method." Keep in mind that you are not MAKING any ORMUS, since matter (like consciousness) can neither be created nor destroyed. You are merely extracting ORMUS, where ORMUS is a synonym for ORMEs, for Monoatomic Gold, and for the white powder of Gold the Egyptian pharaohs used. The powder you will be extracting contains not just Gold, but other Platinum Group Metals (PGMs) like Iridium, and Rhodium. These are beneficial as well. In addition to the "wet method," ORMUS can also be made from metallic Gold, and can also be converted INTO metallic Gold via a patented process created by David Hudson who discovered the monoatomic element state. The patent is available for download here: https://patents.google.com/patent/GB2219995A/ The method described in the patent is the one the ancient alchemists were using to extract Gold. ORMUS can be extracted from many different substances but you should use those substances that have the highest concentrations thereof, such as salt from the Dead Sea or salt from the Himalayas. Dried brain tissue is also a source very high in ORMUS, as an example, but this is not practical. Dead Sea salt is not that expensive. If you want an even cheaper source as a starting point, you can use forest soil. Do NOT use regular table salt as this contains no ORMUS at all. The methods I describe are ones I have used personally to extract ORMUS, which I consume on a daily basis. The immediate effect of my first dose was a slight normalisation of sleep patterns. Your own results will vary. I have been consuming it for about a month now. Most of the recipes available online say that it's important for the starting solution to not go above pH 10.83 so as to prevent the deposition of so-called Gilchrist Elements, which are toxic, specifically mercury and cadmium. It is not necessary to buy an expensive pH meter to make ORMUS provided you use washing soda (made from baking soda) in place of sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner) since even a concentrated solution of washing soda will never get as high in pH as one of sodium hydroxide. 1. Buy Dead Sea salt. Should be free of added fluouride. You CAN use the Dead Sea Salt intended for bathing purposes. I paid 2.20 Euros for half a kilo at my local Edeka supermarket (in the cosmetics section). 2. Buy baking soda. Since I couldn't find washing soda at my local Edeka and wasn't 100% sure of the German translation, I went with baking soda because its range of other uses is wider than washing soda anyway. 3. Mix the Dead Sea salt with just enough water to dissolve it. You don't need distilled water, which is besides the point because your aim is to extract ORMUS, and any additional ORMUS present in normal water is absent in distilled water. 4. Filter the salt water once through 2 coffee filters. The liquid should be clear. 5. Take about 10% of the weight of the salt in baking soda and put it in a non-teflon steel pan and heat it as hot as possible on the stove for about half an hour. This will drive off some CO2 so do this with a bit of ventilation. When it starts releasing its gases, it will look like it's boiling, despite being completely dry. Turn off the heat when the powder stops "bubbling" and set it aside to cool. 6. Add just enough water to the washing soda (which you made from the baking soda) to dissolve it. Again, you don't need to use distilled water. The liquid should be clear. If not, then filter it through a double coffee filter. 7. You can use any appropriate reaction vessel(s) made from glass, steel or plastic. Just avoid aluminium or anything coated with teflon. 8. While stirring the salt solution, add the washing solution to it. The liquid should instantly turn bright white. That is your ORMUS suspended in colloidial form. 9. Cover the reaction vessel so that no light gets to it and let it sit for several days. Check it often until you see that the white powder has settled to the bottom of the vessel and the liquid above it is perfectly clear. 10. Drain the clear liquid in such a way as to not disturb the sediment at the bottom and throw it away. Do not use this liquid for anything. To do so, suck the liquid off using a plastic tube and try to get as much as possible. If you don't have a tube use a turkey baster, or absent even that, just carefully pour the liquid off. 11. Add fresh tap water to the sediment (the ORMUS) and mix it thoroughly. Repeat step 9, that is to say, let it sit covered from light for as long as it takes for the ORMUS to settle back down again and you have a layer of clear liquid above it. 12. Drain this liquid again, like you did the first time, and repeat this step 2-3 more times, or until such time as the clear liquid has virtually no taste. 13. Drain it a final time, and transfer the sediment to a steel pot, and heat it for as long as it takes to drive off all the water and burn off any organics that might still be in it. The resulting white powder shouldn't stick to the insides of the pot, and should be white and fluffy in texture. 14. After the ORMUS cools down, transfer it to a jar or other vessel and keep it out of sunlight. 15. To determine the optimal dose, you should take about 1 teaspoon for your initial dose. It tastes like clay or chalk, so swallow some water afterwards. If you exhibit any gastrointestinal troubles like diarrhea, then the dose is too high. Keep lowering the dose until you don't have any diarrhea. For me, that daily dose is about 1/2 of a very small coffee spoon (like a small teaspoon). How to Extract ORMUS from Forest Soil You would proceed exactly the same way as with the salt. The only difference here is that the amount of active ingredients that will get into solution is not know beforehand. 1. Mix the soil with water in a big bucket to form a loose, watery mud. The soil you should be aiming for is in the forest, but about 20-30 cm deep so as to be as free as possible from things like pine needles, dead leaves, branches and rocks. 2. After the mud has settled, drain the clear water from the top and filter it. Then throw the soil away. At this point you would treat this solution just like the salt solution and proceed to do steps 4-15 where this time you would simply estimate the amount of washing soda you need. Don't worry about using too much or too little. If you use too little, you'll only extract a portion of the ORMUS present. Not a big deal. If you use too much, the excess will be drained off when you do the decantation (extracting the clear water from the top). Also not a big deal. In both cases, by using washing soda made from baking soda the pH never exceeds that critical level of 10.83. Making ORMUS from a Stone I found a fascinating stone in a puddle of my own urine behind a transformer station at Pleystein, Germany. Pleystein is called the "Rose Quartz City" and this stone was a fascinating lump of polycrystalline rose quartz on a substrate of limestone. Originally I did not intend to extract any ORMUS from this stone, but merely to remove the limestone substrate and have a beautiful specimen of rose quartz. I placed the stone in a plastic yogurt container and added vinegar. Soon, some bubbles started appearing and I checked it again 12 hours later. By this time, the stone stopped forming bubbles. Tasting the vinegar, I found that it was no longer acidic, so I dumped it into a pot, and added fresh vinegar. I kept repeating the procedure every 12 hours and used about 2.5 liters of white vinegar. Each time, I would save the spent vinegar. The quartz portion of the stone kept getting smaller and smaller, before the limestone substrate completely dissolved. By now the stone was only half its size with random small crystals having crumbled away. I now took all the spent vinegar, which had dried on its own because I kept it on my radiator, and reconstituted it into a liquid form, this time using water. This was then filtered through a double filter and the filtrate was not observed to contain as many crystals as had come off the original stone. My theory is that the long action of the vinegar may have dissolved some interstitial limestone that had been absorbed between the crystals during their formation via capillary action. I now proceeded to boil this down and then burn the resulting white powder to get out any organics. This took several hours and the result was a grey ash. This was then re-mixed with water and then filtered. The resulting liquid had an interesting pinkish tan colour similar to the rose quartz. To this, I added a washing soda solution, and the result was a tiny amount of sediment containing ORMUS. Not enough to make the whole thing worthwhile, but an interesting experiment nevertheless. If you have any previous experience in wine making, you can use the same basic equipment for the filtration and decantation of ORMUS. Like wine, ORMUS needs to be kept away from sunlight, as well as from any powerful magnetic fields, like a microwave oven or cell phone.
148 views · Feb 19th, 2020

More from Dalibor Maria Suchy

Using LST to Increase Your Psychedelic Powers If you’ve done your research and you’re even remotely interested in esoteric matters you should already know that psychic powers are a demonstrable and documented scientific fact, notwithstanding what the media would have us believe, and the same goes for most paranormal phenomena like UFOs, aliens, ghosts, life after death, etc. That doesn’t mean that every claim of something paranormal is factual, or should be believed. Whenever possible, you should do your own research and your own experiments to see for yourself. What most people have never heard about is the relation of PSI abilities to one’s position on the Earth and its relationship to the cosmos. In a 1997 article titled “Apparent Association Between Effect Size In Free Response Anomalous Cognition Experiments And Local Sidereal Time” available here: http://www.jsasoc.com/docs/JSE-LST.pdf it was discovered that the effect sizes for PSI phenomena dramatically increased when the experiments were performed within an hour of 13:30 LST. What is LST? It’s Local Sidereal Time, or simply stated “Star Time” as opposed to Solar time which we all use. Instead of calculating time based on the Earth’s position to the Sun (and your position on the Earth), LST is calculated using the surrounding stars as a reference point. Since the Earth moves around the Sun by 1/365th of its revolution, or about one degree each day, that LST will shift by about 4 minutes per day with respect to the Sun. So although LST is based on a larger frame of reference than regular time, it still varies based on your position on Earth. An observer in Europe will always be ~6 hours ahead of an observer on the east coast of the USA. The implication of this is interesting because it establishes a PHYSICAL variable that has an effect on PSI abilities. Kind of ties in with all the data (and my experiments) on the effect of the pyramid shape on the inertia of a rotating mass. Since the Earth itself is one huge rotating mass, the position of The Great Pyramid at Giza in the very centre of the Earth’s continental mass appears to be intentional. We still don’t know the true purpose of TGP or the other pyramids and no theory, including that they were resurrection machines should not be discounted. We know that being inside a scale model of TGP will change all your blood readings after 15 minutes, and we know it affects living systems like decomposition, seed sprouting, and the flavours of various foodstuffs. Knowing that a physical variable like LST or the pyramid shape has an effect on ESP and PSI phenomena in general, what other physical variables can we change to increase them at will? Certain meditation techniques have been reported to work anecdotally, including one recommended by Dr. Joe Dispenza here: https://youtu.be/q9cTJef4gzE The technique consists of holding your breath while you pull in your abdomen and tighten the sphinctre muscles in order to cause a chain reaction where the cerebrospinal fluid goes up the spine and compresses the pineal gland in order to activate the crystals inside it to give off a piezoelectric effect and thus metabolise the hormones serotonin and melatonin it normally produces into DMT. After repeated experiments with this technique I kept seeing the chemical cartoons in the video morphing into Mickey Mouse and then realised that the catecholamine molecule looks exactly like a silhouette of Mickey Mouse, catecholamine being a precursor to all 12 of the body’s hormones. We also know that focused intention causes a physical effect on physical matter, most importantly water, as demonstrated by the experiments of Dr. Emoto. That actually would confirm a different theory that non-physical factors are at play in PSI phenomena because focused intention is a purely mental thing. LST can best be described as Astrological Time versus Astronomical Time. It’s obvious that these 2 terms were switched at birth, where the words “psychic” and “psychedelic” are misnomers as well since “psychedelic” means “mind-clearing.” For this reason, I like to interchange the word “psychic” with “psychedelic” since anyone who’s experienced anything psychedelic knows that it’s anything BUT a mind-clearing experience but rather a mind-expanding one. Since psychic powers are inherent to all consciousness including the human mind but very few people actively engage them in their day-to-day lives, these psychic abilities are sometimes thought of as <extended capabilities> which would make them more analogous to the psychedelic experience than the normal waking one. Knowing that one’s LST will affect the outcome of any psychic phenomena one might be attempting to manifest, the same would therefore apply to any attempts at effecting change via nonstandard methods such as divination and Magick. Most likely, it will also have an effect on one’s psychedelic experiences, and even meditative practices. The alchemists of old were right in claiming that certain alchemical operations had to be done at certain times due to their correspondences with the motions of the heavenly bodies. The most stunning application of the proper timing of a divination operation which I’ve experienced was back in 2018 when I decided that I needed a large quantity of lead foil to shield various places in my living quarterts from both EM and negative Telluric radiation. Having discovered that only lead foil (as opposed to other metals like copper, Silver, aluminium, tin, and steel) would do what I needed efficiently, I set out to buy some but found the prices to be NOT to my liking. There was also an upcoming bulk garbage day for 2 towns in my area. When 13:30 LST came around 2 days later, I was ready. Using the cards, I was able to confirm (without a shadow of doubt) which of these 2 towns would have somebody throwing out a good-sized piece of lead foil. I then opened Google Maps and, using a pendulum in one hand and my mouse in the other I was able to pinpoint an area of 3 city blocks where I would find it, and even on which day (since these are typically a 3-day affair). Went there and scoured that particular area and found nothing. Cruised around for 4 hours thinking that maybe I had been mistaken. Checked that area 3 times, and just as I’m getting ready to leave for home, I cruised the area again and noticed a table with some boxes on top. Checking the boxes, I discovered they had small (30 cm) rolls of lead foil, having a total weight of about 20 kilos. I then had a closer look at the table, which was more like a stool, and realised that it was the exact size and configuration that I needed. I would up taking the whole thing, and that whole find fit perfectly inside my (at this point) already overstuffed minivan. It was only later that I realised the whole IMprobablility of what I had just done. How many people out there are throwing out lead foil, and why? Had I gone into that operation with that degree of retroskepticism, I probably would not have succeeded. I just basically went through the motions, expecting SOME kind of result and got not only the lead foil but the small table as well. To this day they serve their purposes in my house. At this point you might be asking if I use LST-enhanced divination for all my Spehrrmull (bulk garbage days here in Germany) runs and most of the time I do not because the whole Spehrrmull experience then becomes more like one’s childhood experience of Christmas where you don’t know what you’ll get, you just know it’ll be something good. Aside from that, metals like Gold and Silver as well as real antiques are common finds for me. I don’t have (or need) a job and picking through other people’s trash is the only physical work I actually do these days, aside from the task of packaging and mailing some of the finds I wind up selling at various online auction venues. The moral of the story is that you can do anything you believe you can using the superpowers of your human biomind, if you believe in yourself. Which I DO. Here’s a good LST calculator I use: http://www.jgiesen.de/astro/astroJS/siderealClock/
54 views · Mar 11th, 2020
ORMUS - How To Extract Your Own The following is gleaned from various sources and simplified, so that anyone can do it. I describe what's called the "wet method." Keep in mind that you are not MAKING any ORMUS, since matter (like consciousness) can neither be created nor destroyed. You are merely extracting ORMUS, where ORMUS is a synonym for ORMEs, for Monoatomic Gold, and for the white powder of Gold the Egyptian pharaohs used. The powder you will be extracting contains not just Gold, but other Platinum Group Metals (PGMs) like Iridium, and Rhodium. These are beneficial as well. In addition to the "wet method," ORMUS can also be made from metallic Gold, and can also be converted INTO metallic Gold via a patented process created by David Hudson who discovered the monoatomic element state. The patent is available for download here: https://patents.google.com/patent/GB2219995A/ The method described in the patent is the one the ancient alchemists were using to extract Gold. ORMUS can be extracted from many different substances but you should use those substances that have the highest concentrations thereof, such as salt from the Dead Sea or salt from the Himalayas. Dried brain tissue is also a source very high in ORMUS, as an example, but this is not practical. Dead Sea salt is not that expensive. If you want an even cheaper source as a starting point, you can use forest soil. Do NOT use regular table salt as this contains no ORMUS at all. The methods I describe are ones I have used personally to extract ORMUS, which I consume on a daily basis. The immediate effect of my first dose was a slight normalisation of sleep patterns. Your own results will vary. I have been consuming it for about a month now. Most of the recipes available online say that it's important for the starting solution to not go above pH 10.83 so as to prevent the deposition of so-called Gilchrist Elements, which are toxic, specifically mercury and cadmium. It is not necessary to buy an expensive pH meter to make ORMUS provided you use washing soda (made from baking soda) in place of sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner) since even a concentrated solution of washing soda will never get as high in pH as one of sodium hydroxide. 1. Buy Dead Sea salt. Should be free of added fluouride. You CAN use the Dead Sea Salt intended for bathing purposes. I paid 2.20 Euros for half a kilo at my local Edeka supermarket (in the cosmetics section). 2. Buy baking soda. Since I couldn't find washing soda at my local Edeka and wasn't 100% sure of the German translation, I went with baking soda because its range of other uses is wider than washing soda anyway. 3. Mix the Dead Sea salt with just enough water to dissolve it. You don't need distilled water, which is besides the point because your aim is to extract ORMUS, and any additional ORMUS present in normal water is absent in distilled water. 4. Filter the salt water once through 2 coffee filters. The liquid should be clear. 5. Take about 10% of the weight of the salt in baking soda and put it in a non-teflon steel pan and heat it as hot as possible on the stove for about half an hour. This will drive off some CO2 so do this with a bit of ventilation. When it starts releasing its gases, it will look like it's boiling, despite being completely dry. Turn off the heat when the powder stops "bubbling" and set it aside to cool. 6. Add just enough water to the washing soda (which you made from the baking soda) to dissolve it. Again, you don't need to use distilled water. The liquid should be clear. If not, then filter it through a double coffee filter. 7. You can use any appropriate reaction vessel(s) made from glass, steel or plastic. Just avoid aluminium or anything coated with teflon. 8. While stirring the salt solution, add the washing solution to it. The liquid should instantly turn bright white. That is your ORMUS suspended in colloidial form. 9. Cover the reaction vessel so that no light gets to it and let it sit for several days. Check it often until you see that the white powder has settled to the bottom of the vessel and the liquid above it is perfectly clear. 10. Drain the clear liquid in such a way as to not disturb the sediment at the bottom and throw it away. Do not use this liquid for anything. To do so, suck the liquid off using a plastic tube and try to get as much as possible. If you don't have a tube use a turkey baster, or absent even that, just carefully pour the liquid off. 11. Add fresh tap water to the sediment (the ORMUS) and mix it thoroughly. Repeat step 9, that is to say, let it sit covered from light for as long as it takes for the ORMUS to settle back down again and you have a layer of clear liquid above it. 12. Drain this liquid again, like you did the first time, and repeat this step 2-3 more times, or until such time as the clear liquid has virtually no taste. 13. Drain it a final time, and transfer the sediment to a steel pot, and heat it for as long as it takes to drive off all the water and burn off any organics that might still be in it. The resulting white powder shouldn't stick to the insides of the pot, and should be white and fluffy in texture. 14. After the ORMUS cools down, transfer it to a jar or other vessel and keep it out of sunlight. 15. To determine the optimal dose, you should take about 1 teaspoon for your initial dose. It tastes like clay or chalk, so swallow some water afterwards. If you exhibit any gastrointestinal troubles like diarrhea, then the dose is too high. Keep lowering the dose until you don't have any diarrhea. For me, that daily dose is about 1/2 of a very small coffee spoon (like a small teaspoon). How to Extract ORMUS from Forest Soil You would proceed exactly the same way as with the salt. The only difference here is that the amount of active ingredients that will get into solution is not know beforehand. 1. Mix the soil with water in a big bucket to form a loose, watery mud. The soil you should be aiming for is in the forest, but about 20-30 cm deep so as to be as free as possible from things like pine needles, dead leaves, branches and rocks. 2. After the mud has settled, drain the clear water from the top and filter it. Then throw the soil away. At this point you would treat this solution just like the salt solution and proceed to do steps 4-15 where this time you would simply estimate the amount of washing soda you need. Don't worry about using too much or too little. If you use too little, you'll only extract a portion of the ORMUS present. Not a big deal. If you use too much, the excess will be drained off when you do the decantation (extracting the clear water from the top). Also not a big deal. In both cases, by using washing soda made from baking soda the pH never exceeds that critical level of 10.83. Making ORMUS from a Stone I found a fascinating stone in a puddle of my own urine behind a transformer station at Pleystein, Germany. Pleystein is called the "Rose Quartz City" and this stone was a fascinating lump of polycrystalline rose quartz on a substrate of limestone. Originally I did not intend to extract any ORMUS from this stone, but merely to remove the limestone substrate and have a beautiful specimen of rose quartz. I placed the stone in a plastic yogurt container and added vinegar. Soon, some bubbles started appearing and I checked it again 12 hours later. By this time, the stone stopped forming bubbles. Tasting the vinegar, I found that it was no longer acidic, so I dumped it into a pot, and added fresh vinegar. I kept repeating the procedure every 12 hours and used about 2.5 liters of white vinegar. Each time, I would save the spent vinegar. The quartz portion of the stone kept getting smaller and smaller, before the limestone substrate completely dissolved. By now the stone was only half its size with random small crystals having crumbled away. I now took all the spent vinegar, which had dried on its own because I kept it on my radiator, and reconstituted it into a liquid form, this time using water. This was then filtered through a double filter and the filtrate was not observed to contain as many crystals as had come off the original stone. My theory is that the long action of the vinegar may have dissolved some interstitial limestone that had been absorbed between the crystals during their formation via capillary action. I now proceeded to boil this down and then burn the resulting white powder to get out any organics. This took several hours and the result was a grey ash. This was then re-mixed with water and then filtered. The resulting liquid had an interesting pinkish tan colour similar to the rose quartz. To this, I added a washing soda solution, and the result was a tiny amount of sediment containing ORMUS. Not enough to make the whole thing worthwhile, but an interesting experiment nevertheless. If you have any previous experience in wine making, you can use the same basic equipment for the filtration and decantation of ORMUS. Like wine, ORMUS needs to be kept away from sunlight, as well as from any powerful magnetic fields, like a microwave oven or cell phone.
148 views · Feb 19th, 2020